National retail and general merchandise groups
The smallest segment by count and the largest by volume. Own-label is where the denim program lives here, and the decision belongs to a merchant who carries the margin rather than to a product team. These are also the companies most likely to run a formal approved vendor process, which is a wall on the way in and a moat once you are through it.
Who signs: Chief merchant, general merchandise manager, VP of private brands, VP of sourcing, director of supplier quality.